History in the remaking
Not that the Berlin Wall actually fell down - such a thing could never happen in a country which prides itself on its sturdy workmanship - but the crossings between East and West Berlin were declared open on November 9th, 1989, prompting scenes of unbridled jubilation followed by a mass exodus of Trabis and Wartburgs across the border.
Among those celebrating at the time must have been countless graffiti artists, salivating at the thoughts of all that lovely clean smooth concrete just waiting to be painted - a blank canvas for their creations.
Up to that point of course, just the western side of the wall was adorned with graffiti. Nasty East German border guards, death strips, machine-gun fences and fearsome guard dogs among other things had kept would-be-artists well away from the GDR-side of the 140km "anti-fascist protective barrier".
After Günter Schabowski inadvertently brought about its demise by mistakenly declaring the border open, the wall met its undignified end through the actions of eager sledgehammer-swinging locals and countless souvenir-hunting Mauerspechte (wall woodpeckers), but a few sections have survived to this day.
Declaring it a national monument in 1993 did not protect their works of art from almost 20 years of pollution, vandalism, graffiti (how ironic!) or weather however, and in recent years the East Side Gallery became decidedly less impressive than it had been as Berlin was taking its first steps in a brave new world following the wall fall.
(Cynics would say it's because the monument has become such a tourist magnet, with camera-clutching hordes bringing millions in €uro every year to the German capital. Almost 8 million tourists visited Berlin last year, more than double the city's population.)
After being granted €2.5 million for the restoration project, the authorities began work earlier this year; firstly stripping away the original murals, then reconstructing the cement, and then painting it with a special protective whitewash so the artists could return to recreate their works. They were to receive €3,000 each to redo their magic.
Yesterday however, Vrubel grudgingly began work to repaint his iconic creation. "I don't like that my work was destroyed," the 48-year-old told reporters. "It's not good and I'm speaking up against it."
He indicated he only changed his mind about repainting the piece after speaking with Iranian artist Kani Alavi, head of the group overseeing the restoration project. Vrubel also admitted he was worried he might not be able to remember exactly what he painted, and that he would not be able to replicate it precisely as it was before. "I don't find it good but okay, I'll do it now," he said with a wry smile before starting work. He'll be at it for the next month at least.
Another unhappy camper is Bodo Sperling who is holding out for more than the €3,000 on offer. He pointed out that the city of Berlin had made "seven figure sums" from merchandising from the East Side Gallery over the years, and he wants €15,000 for recreating his work. Typical Wessie, always looking for more money. He has a few supporters. I guess they must be Wessies too.
So far, I have to say, the work looks great! I just happened to be passing on my bicycle on my way to an important appointment (I have to at least pretend to be busy), when the furious sound of brush strokes caught my attention. I slowed down enough to see what all the commotion was about, and was soon captivated by what I saw. I must have been there for hours, appointment forgotten as I surveyed the freshly-painted and ongoing murals before me. (I'd been there last year, before the restoration began when it looked crap, and the difference is incredible.)
More pictures are here.
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